Weekend Getaway to the Aosta Valley in Autumn (from Zurich)
What is the Aosta Valley like?
The Aosta Valley blends the charm of northern Italy with strong French influences. Many towns have French-sounding names, and the cuisine features Italian alpine dishes like polenta and game meat, including rabbit and boar. Some restaurants even offer snails—a French delicacy. If you're not fond of wild game or snails, fear not—there's plenty of variety, including pizzas, steaks, and burgers.
For castle lovers, the valley is a paradise, with fortresses and castles dotting the landscape every few kilometers.
How to Get to Aosta from Switzerland
If you're coming from Zurich, Bern, or Basel, the easiest route is via the Great Saint Bernard Tunnel, located in the southwestern part of Canton Valais. This paid road comes with a toll of CHF 30 one-way or CHF 55 round-trip. Alternatively, you can take the scenic Great Saint Bernard Pass, though it's sometimes closed due to weather conditions, as we experienced when we visited.
One great stop if you're driving from Zurich is Gruyère, which is almost exactly halfway. Here, you can visit the famous cheese museum or explore the charming Gruyère Castle. If you prefer to stay closer to the motorway, you’ll also find one of my favourite motorway stops (Autogrill La Gruyere)—ideal for a quick break without going too far off track.
Once through the tunnel, the drive down into the valley toward Aosta is breathtaking. Along the way, stop by beautiful Italian villages like Etroubles for a taste of local charm.
Where We Stayed: Hotel Duca d'Aosta
Our base in Aosta was the centrally located Hotel Duca d'Aosta, ideally positioned within walking distance of shops, restaurants, and the town’s historic sights. Aosta offers the perfect blend of a lively town atmosphere with convenient access to the valley’s many attractions; both ends of the valley are just 30 to 45 minutes away via the (toll) motorway. Although the town center is car-free, parking spots are available nearby for guests.
The hotel itself has a cozy, library-like ambiance with rooms that offer stunning views of the town. One unique feature is the hotel’s own paneficeria, where a delicious breakfast is served each morning—a super cool way to start the day! Right next to the hotel, there’s also an affordable barbershop, adding a touch of convenience to the stay. Altogether, the Hotel Duca d'Aosta makes a fantastic base for exploring Aosta and the surrounding valley.
What to Do in and Around Aosta
We spent our first day wandering around Aosta town, marveling at the Roman ruins that dot the town. It’s a relaxing way to immerse yourself in the Italian atmosphere and enjoy the beauty of autumn in the valley.
Six Things to Visit in Aosta
Teatro Romano
Aosta's Roman Theater is an impressive historical site dating back to the 1st century. The massive arches and ruins are well-preserved, giving you a real sense of the grandeur of ancient Rome. It’s a must-see for history buffs and provides great photo opportunities.
Teatro Romano Arch of Augustus
This ancient triumphal arch was built in 25 BC to celebrate Augustus' victory over the Salassi tribe. It’s a short walk from the town center and a quick stop, but worth visiting to appreciate Aosta’s Roman heritage.
Aosta Cathedral
The cathedral is a mix of Romanesque and Gothic styles and is a peaceful, spiritual place to visit. The beautiful frescoes inside are remarkable, and if you're into architecture, you’ll appreciate the detailed design.
The Entrance of the Aosta Cathedral Sant'Orso Church and Cloister
This medieval church, with its serene cloister, is a hidden gem. The columns and capitals of the cloister are intricately carved and tell fascinating stories. It’s a peaceful retreat from the bustling town centre and gives you a glimpse into the religious history of the region.
Criptoportico Forense
This underground Roman ruin is a unique and eerie spot to explore near the cathedral. The cryptoporticus is thought to have been part of the Roman forum and is surprisingly well-preserved. Walking through the cool, dimly lit arches gives you an authentic sense of ancient Roman architecture.
Piazza Émile Chanoux
Aosta’s central square, Piazza Émile Chanoux, is the heart of the town. Surrounded by cafes and elegant buildings, it’s the perfect place to sit, have a coffee, and soak in the lively atmosphere. The square is also home to the town hall and is a great spot for people-watching.
Small street new Piazza Émile Chanoux
Castles to Visit
You’ll quickly realise that the Aosta Valley is brimming with castles. Visiting them all in one trip is nearly impossible, but here are a few highlights:
Bard Castle, actually a fortress rather than a traditional castle, is a must-visit destination with stunning views and fascinating history. The fortress houses several museums and exhibitions, each offering a unique way to explore the site. Known for its appearance in an Avengers film, Bard Castle even includes subtle references to the movie throughout.
Ticket options are flexible: for €8, you can enter the fortress and visit one museum; for €16, you can explore the fortress and two museums; and for €24, you gain access to all three museums. We chose the Museum of the Alps, and the experience was well worth it. The three elevators to the top—two of which feel like mini cable cars—add to the adventure, whisking you up to incredible views. If you buy tickets online, you might even save a euro or two!
For a nice meal afterward, we enjoyed some good, simple food at Bar del Borgo, located at the start of Bard’s old town
Issogne Castle is one of my favorite castles so far, especially because of its remarkable interior. It was actually recommended by the receptionist at our hotel, and it did not disappoint. At first glance, the castle seems modest from the outside, but stepping inside reveals a treasure trove of historical artifacts. Unlike many castles, Issogne stands out for its impressive interior, filled with original furniture, accessories, and centuries-old woodwork. Many of the rooms retain their authentic furnishings, and the walls feature writings left behind by former inhabitants—details rarely preserved in other castles.
We were fortunate to have a private guided tour, which made the €10 entry fee more than worthwhile. While Bard Castle impresses with its size, Issogne captivates with its rich, authentic interior, providing a truly immersive glimpse into the past.
Castello di Fénis is one of the most famous castles in the region, renowned for its iconic medieval architecture and unique history. Unlike many castles, Fénis was not built for military defense; instead, it served as the residence of the noble Challant family, one of the most influential lineages in the Aosta Valley. The castle’s strategic design and striking double walls give it a fortress-like appearance, yet its primary purpose was residential, adding an interesting twist to its grand exterior.
At first glance, Castello di Fénis impresses with its scenic location and dramatic structure, but stepping inside reveals even more. The inner courtyard, surrounded by stone arches, is adorned with vibrant frescoes depicting saints and sages—thought to inspire wisdom and virtue among the castle’s inhabitants. The rooms contain restored medieval furnishings and intricate woodwork, each adding to the castle's atmosphere of noble life in centuries past.
We were particularly drawn to the frescoes in the courtyard, which are truly unique and bring an unexpected vibrancy to the castle’s stone facade. For just €7, the guided tour brings the history of the Fénis family and their cultural influence in the Aosta Valley to life. While Bard Castle amazes with its size and Issogne with its interior artifacts, Castello di Fénis captivates with its blend of art, architecture, and noble history—a must-see for any history lover.
Note: Many castles close during lunch or have limited opening hours, so plan ahead. You can also purchase tickets online to save time.
Food in the Aosta Valley
One of the culinary highlights in Aosta is the local cheese, Fontina. While Switzerland is renowned for its cheeses, Fontina offers a unique flavor that you should definitely try. The Rivendita Fontina factory shop is the perfect place to sample and purchase this regional delicacy. Fontina from Aosta has a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO), meaning it must be made in this region to carry the name.
Another local specialty is Fontina fondue, which is served differently than in Switzerland. Rather than a large pot, you’ll get a molten slice of cheese atop meat or other dishes.
When ordering sausages or steaks, be sure to ask what type of meat it is, as many dishes feature less common animals like rabbit or goose.
Lardo di Arnad is a cured pork fat from the town of Arnad, also a PDO product. It’s aged with herbs and spices and is typically served sliced very thin on toasted bread or as part of a charcuterie platter.
Recommended Restaurants
Break House Aosta: This family-style pizzeria offers excellent pizzas and steaks in a cozy, welcoming atmosphere. We ate here twice during our stay, and the food was consistently delicious.
Osteria dell'Oca: A traditional Italian restaurant where the star of the menu is goose (oca means goose in Italian). We savored pasta with goose and rabbit sausage paired with Fontina fondue. It’s a must-visit for those wanting an authentic Aosta dining experience.
Birrificio '63: A pub-style restaurant featuring local craft beers and a great menu of burgers. The modern Irish pub vibe makes it a fun spot for a laid-back evening.
Bike Tour: Sarre-Pontey Cycling and Walking Trail
We had initially planned to ride the Sarre-Pontey cycling and walking trail, a scenic car-free path. Unfortunately, due to severe summer storms, some sections of the trail were still closed, and the weather forecast for our stay wasn’t promising, so we decided against it. It's still a great option for those visiting in better conditions, offering a beautiful ride through the valley’s natural landscapes.
Good to Know: Autumn Visit
We visited during the Swiss autumn holidays in early October, which is an off-season period between summer and winter in many mountain resorts. During this time, several cable cars are closed for maintenance, so if you plan on taking cable cars, it's a good idea to check ahead of time to avoid disappointment.
A weekend getaway to the Aosta Valley is the perfect autumn escape from Zurich, offering a mix of history, culture, and stunning scenery. Whether you’re castle-hopping, indulging in local dishes, or simply soaking in the beauty of the Italian Alps, the valley offers something for everyone.
Comments